From Zakho to Dahuk, Iraq - Iraq Project II
This is a reposting of my Iraq Project II. I will post a dispatch-entry Monday thru Friday until the original project is recreated. The real-time journey was posted by The Janesville Gazette in February and March, 2008.
From Zakho to Dahuk Iraq
posted February 26, 2008
I headed to the enormous Zahko taxi garage and found the Dahuk drivers right where they were last trip - in the best spot with a seated waiting area and snack vendors. The ride to Dahuk cost five Bucks. Not bad considering it is about 20 miles or so to the southwest through some winding roads. It is cheaper though if you ride with other people in the car. I share the ride with a couple of businessmen and a Peshmerga soldier. The driver stopped at one point after a big hill, got out, and beat the underside of the engine with a rock from the side of the road. Something was gummed up. It never ceases to amaze me that nothing goes right here, and then I am equally amazed they always squeak themselves out of a jam.
- Taxi Garage Zakho, Iraq - phoho by Bob Keith, February 2008 -
I might mention at this point that the Peshmerga are the Kurdish Region of Iraq's army. They are primarily Kurds as far as I can tell. They run their own show for the most part. I have noticed as I trav el east their uniforms seem to change. The west Kurds and the east Kurds have fought a civil war in the not so distant past. They have now merged their two political wings into one. The Peshmerga walk amongst the people. They often carry their machine guns and pistols into shops and cafes. Their uniforms very in color and camouflage design. I suspect there is many theifdoms within the Peshmerga. Perhaps a Kurdish society expert could straighten me out on that.
The Peshmerga became a concern last time because the eastern Peshmerga did not understand the writing the western authorities had put in my passport. I was detained for a bit near Halabja in the far eastern area of Northern Iraq. It also seems their may be fringe elements that operate under the auspice of the Peshmerga. This is disconcerting at the many regional check points I must negotiate throughout the country.
As long as I continue to see the Kurdish flag I know I am in relatively safe hands. But safety is always subjective anywhere in Iraq. The Kurds want international support. So safety prowess and a timbre of security is the theme of the day. Yet, private guards, security police, and of course the Peshmerga are everywhere. It is a paradox - it is safe because they are here, yet if it is safe, why are they so urgent in numbers? It is hard to take pictures because a soldier or police officer of some order is usually within my focus. They do not really like to be photographed while on the job.
The Kurdish flag has a distinct yellow star that its on the red, white and green horizontal strips. It is everywhere here. The Iraqi flag is nowhere here. The Kurdish flag is even more prevalent in these cities away from the border. When I start to see the Iraqi flag on my journeys south of here I know I am getting into an area out of the Kurd's protection. The Kurd / Iraqi bo rder to the south does not seem static to me. It seems to be in a constant flux. You must be very careful in those middle world areas between north and south of Iraq.
- The distinct Kurdish flag, Dohuk, Iraq, photo by Bob Keith, February 2008 -
I have noticed a distinct rise in the number of soldiers and police on the streets of Dahuk this trip. I have also noticed that their vehicles have been upgraded this trip. Their vehicles seem new and streamlined.
As well, I have noticed a distinct rise in the number of newer cars that citizens drive. I saw a new Ford Mustang today. Some of the citizens here obviously have more cash than me. There are of course plenty of people here - probably most - of humble means. To the question of credit cards in Iraq, this year I have found a type of trade office that boasts an ATM machine and credit cards. Hopefully the electricity does not go off as you are in the middle of a transaction.
Bob Keith
Dahuk, Iraq
From Zakho to Dahuk Iraq
posted February 26, 2008
I headed to the enormous Zahko taxi garage and found the Dahuk drivers right where they were last trip - in the best spot with a seated waiting area and snack vendors. The ride to Dahuk cost five Bucks. Not bad considering it is about 20 miles or so to the southwest through some winding roads. It is cheaper though if you ride with other people in the car. I share the ride with a couple of businessmen and a Peshmerga soldier. The driver stopped at one point after a big hill, got out, and beat the underside of the engine with a rock from the side of the road. Something was gummed up. It never ceases to amaze me that nothing goes right here, and then I am equally amazed they always squeak themselves out of a jam.
- Taxi Garage Zakho, Iraq - phoho by Bob Keith, February 2008 -
I might mention at this point that the Peshmerga are the Kurdish Region of Iraq's army. They are primarily Kurds as far as I can tell. They run their own show for the most part. I have noticed as I trav el east their uniforms seem to change. The west Kurds and the east Kurds have fought a civil war in the not so distant past. They have now merged their two political wings into one. The Peshmerga walk amongst the people. They often carry their machine guns and pistols into shops and cafes. Their uniforms very in color and camouflage design. I suspect there is many theifdoms within the Peshmerga. Perhaps a Kurdish society expert could straighten me out on that.
The Peshmerga became a concern last time because the eastern Peshmerga did not understand the writing the western authorities had put in my passport. I was detained for a bit near Halabja in the far eastern area of Northern Iraq. It also seems their may be fringe elements that operate under the auspice of the Peshmerga. This is disconcerting at the many regional check points I must negotiate throughout the country.
As long as I continue to see the Kurdish flag I know I am in relatively safe hands. But safety is always subjective anywhere in Iraq. The Kurds want international support. So safety prowess and a timbre of security is the theme of the day. Yet, private guards, security police, and of course the Peshmerga are everywhere. It is a paradox - it is safe because they are here, yet if it is safe, why are they so urgent in numbers? It is hard to take pictures because a soldier or police officer of some order is usually within my focus. They do not really like to be photographed while on the job.
The Kurdish flag has a distinct yellow star that its on the red, white and green horizontal strips. It is everywhere here. The Iraqi flag is nowhere here. The Kurdish flag is even more prevalent in these cities away from the border. When I start to see the Iraqi flag on my journeys south of here I know I am getting into an area out of the Kurd's protection. The Kurd / Iraqi bo rder to the south does not seem static to me. It seems to be in a constant flux. You must be very careful in those middle world areas between north and south of Iraq.
- The distinct Kurdish flag, Dohuk, Iraq, photo by Bob Keith, February 2008 -
I have noticed a distinct rise in the number of soldiers and police on the streets of Dahuk this trip. I have also noticed that their vehicles have been upgraded this trip. Their vehicles seem new and streamlined.
As well, I have noticed a distinct rise in the number of newer cars that citizens drive. I saw a new Ford Mustang today. Some of the citizens here obviously have more cash than me. There are of course plenty of people here - probably most - of humble means. To the question of credit cards in Iraq, this year I have found a type of trade office that boasts an ATM machine and credit cards. Hopefully the electricity does not go off as you are in the middle of a transaction.
Bob Keith
Dahuk, Iraq
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