From:  Bob Keith - Cool Dadio Media - Sulaymaniyah, Iraq,  Tuesday, 8:30:00 p.m., 17 October 2006.

 

  I noticed tonight that after 8:00 p.m. some young men like to roller blade down the street in front of my hotel.  There is about a quarter of a mile down-grade they like to coast down.  After 12:00 Noon until 8:00 p.m. the street in front of my hotel rocks and rolls.  Pop music and Middle Easternized disco music spills out of the shops.  People walk and shop in hoards of humanity.  Street and sidewalk vendors sing out their products to the shoppers. 

 

  I notice that 2,770 Americans have died in this country since 2003.  Do not forget about 400 Americans also died died in the first Iraq War in 1991. Around 21,000 or so have been wounded.  It is just a reality check. It is often easy to forget I am in Iraq while traveling in the Northern part of Iraq.  Every once in a while I get a kick in the reality butt.

 

  I notice that men here often lock arms when they walk if they are best friends.  This would lend some explanation as to why George W. Bush was holding hands with the leader from Saudi Arabia.  He was apparently trying to work with Saudi custom.  But, of course it did not fly well on TV in America with our don't-touch culture.  Our government never seems to explain well the actions of its leaders.  It's the small stuff that people notice, like our President holding hands with a rich oil leader. Don't get me wrong, I am not taking political sides; but, it is my specialty to observe culture and reactions to it. 

 

  The two guys I photographed in Halabja at the bus stop locked arms for the picture.  The one fellow was worried Americans back in my home who saw the picture would think he was gay. I assured him that I would explain to all who see the picture, that it is a Middle Eastern custom that men who are friends often lock arms.  So, you all have gotten the cultural explanation for men locking arms.  He helped me to find transportation out of Halabja - it was beginning worry me as to how I would get back to Sulaymaniyah, and he stepped forward and offered some help.   

 

  All one has to do is hang out on the street corner by my hotel an stuff happens for you, you do not have to wander around and look for pictures. This seems to be a constant in Asia. It was also the same in Viet Nam. 

 

  Never go anywhere in this country without at least two flash lights.  You have not known suspense until you walk down a crowded street in Iraq at night and the power goes out.  That line from the Wicked Witch in the movie, The Wizard of Oz lingers in my head, "How 'bout a little fire scare-crow?" 

 

  In Viet Nam the beauty salons took center stage.  There were three on every block.  That I think, being a sign of their often female centric culture.  Here in Iraq it is a "culture of barber shops."  This then being a male centric culture.  The men love their shoe shops, clothing shops, cell phone shops, and hair styles. That is one reason I get such weird looks.  I buck their norm of "hair control" culture; I probably violate their male clothing norm also.  It is not so much that I am a religious "Infidel" in their eyes, but that I just don't use a barber shop and buy trendy cloths like their society norms and mores dictate. It is a strange world of fashion here in a war zone. Go figure. 

 

  Speaking of fashion, I should mention that from Eastern Turkey to Eastern Northern Iraq, the men love pointy shoes. Many men wear this pointy foot wear that seems to an American in tennis shoes, at least six sizes too long. Often, a Kurd in ethnic costume will present himself in these pointy too-long-by-American-standards shoes.  Hey, it is a war zone.  Wear what you want my friend.

 

  One thing that I took away from Halabja, Iraq was the presence of the muddy streets. It often rains in this part of the world because of the mountains. Some of the streets in Halabja are not paved.  It amazed me that later in the day, I could not wash the mud splatters from the streets of Halabja out of my pant cuffs.  It seemed like the death that happened 18 years ago in Halabja due to the gassing still lingers in the muddy streets and can not be washed out easy. Pardon my creative writhing analysis, but I come from a more free-form sort of writing rather than a journalist form.

 

 Safety here in Northern Iraq is relative.  If you feel safe, I guess you are then if it makes you happy.  But, there are rough edges to the Pesmerga's soldiers security perseverance. One must never forget that they hey are in "Iraq."  The Pesmerga's security legacy and fighting prowess is legendary.  But when traveling here, I suggest one defer to Ronald Reagan's old motto, "Trust, but verify."  One must have a plan of action here if things go sour.  I still have all my fingers and toes, and most importantly, my head.  But, I still operate in mode of, "always assume there may be problems."  

 

  The last time I had dreams like I am having now in Iraq, was when I was stationed in Germany in the early 1970s and often slept in an old Nazi barracks re-tooled for use by the American Army.  That place gave me the creeps and nightmares were the order of the day.  Here however, I am having clairvoyant dreams about old friends, professors, pets, and family members.  I suspect if any of you are having sleep apnea, my observations are not enough to get you to move to Iraq for a good night's sleep.

 

  End of message.

 

Bob Keith - Cool Dadio Media