We made it across Laos to the Mekong River and the Thailand boarder. We are in a town in Laos on the river called Savannahket.  It is their second largest city.  It is about as big as Janesville.  We did not have time to eat before the bus left Hue because it was to leave at 6:00 a.m. (Third World Optimism - we actually left at 6:45 a.m.).  Waiting for the bus we met an Asian couple who lived in Toronto.  I think they were Japanese.  They sailing around South East Asia in their retirement.  He was quite critical of the Vietnamese, but again I error on the fact that they are a Third World country and in general the Vietnamese have bent over backwards to make Heide's and mine stay very comfortable.

 

The Laotian boarder is a trip.  We changed lines five times to get our visa stamps and my passport was stamped 12 times.  We also had to pay 30 U.S Yankee Dollars. One of many "widows-and-orphan's" fees will will pay on this trip.  They prefer our money over their own money. So much for the communist revolution.  The bus ride was about five hours from Hue.  The main problem en route was the sleeping goats, cows, and pigs in the middle of the road every so often.  Route 9 is said to be the newest and best road in Laos and no one uses it but the animals.  This year I knew enough to take the big bus (about 15 Dollars) instead of the local bus.  The local bus (about 11 Dollars) switches out buses and mini-vans about five times throughout the trip.  It also stops ad nauseam to pick up people and contraband.  Last year I rode with a baby on my knee, the mom with here head on my shoulder asleep and my feet scrunched up on some contraband under the seat.  Their was thousands of pounds of whiskey and bananas on the roof and I counted at least two chickens along for the ride.  The big bus this year only stopped a couple times and has some air conditioning.  I guess I am getting soft being around all these European travelers.

 

The poverty in Laos is stunning. The beauty of the green mountains and fast-moving rocky rivers is stunning. The politeness of the people in this poor nation is humbling.  You do not get worn down here by the constant street vendor sales-pitch like you do in Vietnam. 

 

The hotel here (eight Dollars a night) is on the river's edge and has a cool balcony you can sit and watch the sun set over the massive (two-miles wide) Mekong River. You can see the First World lights from the modern buildings of Mukdahan, Thailand across the River. The furnishings here are rough around the edges but they have cable TV, working air conditioning, shower sandals, and towels although a bit worn.  I love the place.  Heide is putting her best foot forward and being a good sport.  I found this hotel last year totally by accident. 

 

There is a constant smell of burning charcoal here in Savannakhet.  It is probably a good thing because the storm sewers are not covered and are just ditches along the streets.  Laos makes Vietnam look like a First World country. 

 

We are headed to Mukdahan , Thailand today for one night.  Then back to Laos (more widows-and-orphans fees await) for one more night.  From Laos we will go back to Hue, Vietnam and then down to Da Nang and Hoi An.  From there we will spend a few nights in Saigon - Heide's and mine old stomping ground.